Italy, Sardinia & Sicily
I didn’t set out on this journey as a fully formed content creator. I didn’t leave Sweden with a real formed plan or even a real understanding of what I was doing. What I had was a rough idea and a deep, restless feeling that there was more out there for me.
So I bough the bike, the cameras and the cheapest camping gear I could get.
From Sweden, I rode through Denmark, Germany, Belgium, France, Switzerland, and into Italy, eventually reaching Sardinia and Sicily. Over two months, I covered more than 10,000 kilometers. At the time, it felt like I was chasing freedom. Looking back, I realize I was actually finding growth.
I made so many mistakes. Both as a solo motorcycle traveller, as a content creator but also as a human being. I realized I made big mistakes in choice of gear and I broke a lot of expensive equipment and understanding that riding with wet socks is NOT fun. Trying to figure out the fastest way to transfer my photos & videos to my computer for editing. Being really confused about editing programs. Realizing I don't need to be filming 24/7 because a lot of that dead time is boring and will be cut out anyways. Learning about shutter speed and lightning. Learning about what food is easy to store and what goes bad in an instant. Finding that you took the wrong turn, but going with it anyways is okay. Learning that you need to tighten your chain otherwise it will almost fall off.
Ferry from Mainland Italy to Sardinia
For the sake of this blog not becomming a book I will only focus on my travels in Italy and the islands Sardinia and Sicily. I will share the best spots I recommend and where I camped during my travels. Let's get into it!
After visiting my Uncle's wife's sister in Northwestern Italy for two weeks I drove across Italy to Levanto and then took the coast down to Livorno. They had recommended taking a ferry from that area to Olbia, Sardinia. On my way south, I rode through Pisa (Didn't check out the tower tho) and stayed at a really cool camping spot in Marina di Pisa called Camping International S.R.L. The harbour was beautiful and I got some really nice ocean portraits here. There were not so many people so I basically had the whole ocean to myself.
The ferry from Livorno to Olbia leaves roughly 12-14 times a week and takes about 7.5 - 9 hours. The ferry I took left very early in the morning and arrived very late in the evening, took almost 9 hours. It was sunset when I was leaving the boat and riding from Olbia to my first camping location in Sardinia, Camping Tavolara. Very beautiful camping spot and close to an extremly beautiful beach!
The next day I head northeast to a very famous rock that is shaped like an elefant, Roccia dell'Elefante. Really cool to see and very beautiful roads around the area with hills and ocean views. The Elephant's Rock is a large boulder of trachyte and andesite, eroded by the atmospheric agents that gave it the shape of an elephant. It is about 4m high. The rock is located near Castelsardo, Sardinia, to the left of the old road that led from the hamlet of Multeddu to the village of Sedini.
Something I do very much reccomend however is Grotta Di Nettuno. The cave, Neptune's Grotto, is a world-renowned stalactite cave located on the Capo Caccia, a massive limestone promontory on the northwest coast of Sardinia, famous for its 180-metre-high vertical cliffs that drop into the Mediterranean.
Grotta Di Nettuno is known for its dramatic coastal setting and massive limestone formations. It is also one of the largest marine caves in Italy! Tickets are approximately €14 for adults. To get to the cave you can go by boat or descent the Escala del Cabirol, the "Goat's Steps," a spectacular staircase of 654 steps carved into the cliff face. It offers breathtaking views but requires a strenuous climb back up (and down for my case, I was sweating all the time).
The SS125 Orientale Sarda, specifically the stretch between Dorgali and Urzulei, is widely regarded as one of the best motorcycle roads in Europe. This section traverses the heart of the Gennargentu National Park, offering a masterclass in technical mountain riding with spectacular limestone scenery.
In the mountains I stayed at Caping Gorropu. This is the highest campsite in Sardinia at 1,010 metres above sea level, offering panoramic views of the Supramonte mountains. The site provides roughly 25 camper spots and 25 tent plots, plus a few fully-equipped bungalows. Amenities include clean toilets, hot showers and electricity. The camping was right on the edge of the cliff side and the night view was the best stargazing I've ever seen in my life. Forestry offices and local police patrol the area; illegal camping can lead to heavy fines ranging from €100 to €500.
Rocce Rosse (Red Rocks) of Arbatax are a striking natural monument of vermilion-red porphyry cliffs that rise like a cathedral from the emerald-green sea. Located at the entrance to the port of Arbatax, this iconic landmark is a symbol of the Ogliastra region.
Why should you go? One of the pink rocks has a perfectly formed square hole inside of it and it really is very cool to go inside. What is often described as a "cave" or "square hole" by visitors and photographers, is actually a geometric natural opening or "window" eroded into the red granite porphyry cliffs. Really cool to climb into and walk inside. It's like a little hiding place and it opens up on the other side to the ocean.
Ferry from Sardinia to Sicily
There were so many more things I wanted to see in Sardinia but due to time and money I had to take the next ferry from Cagliari to Palermo. Apparently the ferries (when I was there in 2022) only leave once a week and direct ferry service from Cagliari (Sardinia) to Palermo (Sicily) is operated exclusively by Grimaldi Lines. So I decided to go.
Ferry boarding can be hectic. And if you don't want to spend money on a cabin you will sleep on the floor. Pack your bike so that you can easily grab your sleeping pad, sleeping bag, toiletries and other necessities you'll need on board.
The Tempio di Segesta (Temple of Segesta) is one of the most remarkably well-preserved ancient monuments in the world, located in the northwestern hills of Sicily.
The temple is part of a larger archaeological park that includes an ancient Greek theatre and city ruins. A full entry ticket to the Segesta Archaeological Park costs approximately €14.00–€15.00. The park typically opens at 9:00 AM. Closing times vary by season, in summer usually until 7:30 PM and in winter 5:00 PM. The temple is a short 300-metre walk from the ticket office.
Built in the late 5th century BCE by the Elymians (an indigenous Sicilian people), the temple is famous for being perfectly unfinished. It lacks a roof, an inner sanctuary (cella), and fluting on its 36 Doric columns. Construction likely stopped due to a war with the rival city of Selinunte, leaving the temple in its "raw" state for over 2,400 years. Very beautiful and I highly recommend going. The roads around there are also beautiful for riding. Lots of vineyards and tiny Italian houses.
The Saline della Laguna (Saline of the Lagoon) in Marsala is a breathtaking nature reserve and historic salt-harvesting site located within the Stagnone Lagoon. Famous for its 16th-century windmills and white salt mounds, it is widely considered one of the most beautiful sunset spots in Sicily. The history of salt harvesting in the Stagnone of Marsala dates back nearly 2,700 years to the Phoenicians, who recognized that the lagoon’s shallow waters, high clay content, and persistent winds were perfect for natural evaporation.
The "Salt Cycle":
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Water Intake (The "Fredda"): In March, seawater is pumped into the first and largest basin, the Fridda. Historically, this was done using Archimedean screws powered by the windmills you see today.
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Evaporation (The "Vasi"): The water moves through a series of increasingly shallow ponds (Ruffiana and Caura). As the water travels, its salinity rises. By the time it reaches the final "crystallisation" tanks (Sintini), the water turns a vibrant pink due to Dunaliella salina algae.
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Crystallisation: Under the intense Sicilian summer sun, the water evaporates completely, leaving a thick crust of "white gold" on the clay floor.
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The Harvest (The "Raccolta"): Between July and September, the salt is harvested manually. Workers (salinari) use flat shovels to break the crust and form small piles.
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Protection: To keep the salt pure and dry during winter rains, the piles are covered with terracotta tiles (the iconic "shingled" mounds).
The Selinunte Archaeological Park (Parco Archeologico di Selinunte) is the largest archaeological park in Europe, spanning approximately 270 hectares along Sicily’s southwestern coast. It contains the remarkably preserved ruins of an ancient Greek city founded in the 7th century BCE. Why should you visit? Unlike other sites where you see a single temple, Selinunte is an entire ancient city. You can walk through residential streets, see the drainage systems, and visit the massive Acropolis, giving you a true sense of how a Greek colony functioned.
Because of its immense size, the park is divided into three main zones: the Eastern Hill (Temples E, F, G), the Acropolis (Temples A, C, D, O), and the Gaggera Hill.
Temple E (Temple of Hera): Built between 460–450 BCE, this is the only substantially reconstructed temple in the park. It is a masterpiece of Doric architecture and is usually the first site visitors encounter.
Temple C: Located on the Acropolis, this is the oldest and largest peripteral temple at the site (c. 550 BCE). Its massive northern colonnade was re-erected in the 1920s.
Temple G: An unfinished giant that would have been one of the largest temples in the ancient Greek world. Today, it remains a monumental pile of collapsed blocks, though one 16-metre column still lies largely intact.
Capo Bianco "White Cape" refers to the stunning white marl cliffs located near the ancient Greek city of Eraclea Minoa in Sicily. It is often described as a quieter, more natural and wild alternative to the famous Scala dei Turchi.
Park near the Greek Theatre and follow the trails to the cliff edge. Be prepared for a short hike (10 - 15 minutes) and a descent that may be daunting for those with a fear of heights.
The area is where I took some of my all time favorite motorcycle portraits of myself and Skadi. There are so many backdrops of limestone and you can easily get beautiful white offroad shots here.
Scala dei Turchi (Stair of the Turks) is a world-famous natural monument on Sicily’s southern coast, known for its dazzling, bone-white marl cliffs that descend into the turquoise Mediterranean like a giant staircase.
Access to the Scala dei Turchi is strictly regulated to protect the fragile marl from erosion and vandalism. To walk on a designated portion of the cliff, you must now purchase a timed entry ticket which is approximately €5.00. Strongly recommended to book online in advance as each 60-minute slot is limited to 35 people. Typically opening hours are 10:00 AM to 7:00 PM. HOWEVER you can still admire the cliffs for free from the adjacent sandy beaches or from the Belvedere viewpoint on the SP68 road above.
Camping Internazionale Nettuno in Agrigento is a really good camping place I highly reccomend. Located in San Leone, near Agrigento, this is the most strategic base for visiting the Scala dei Turchi (approx. 15 mins drive) and the Valley of the Temples (8 km away). Located directly on a sandy beach with private access. There are shaded pitches for tents, caravans, and campers, as well as apartments for rent. On-site services include a bar and playground; while the on-site restaurant is sometimes seasonal, bakeries and local dining are within walking distance. Low-season rates start around €23 per night. I got one of the best sunset photos on that beach.
The Valle dei Templi (Valley of the Temples) in Agrigento is a UNESCO World Heritage site and the largest archaeological park in the world. Despite its name, the site sits on a ridge rather than a valley, showcasing a magnificent row of Doric temples that once formed the core of the ancient Greek city of Akragas. The park is massive, covering 1,300 hectares, so plan for at least 3 to 4 hours of walking. Tickets are approximately €14.00–€17.00 for a standard adult entry.
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Temple of Concordia: One of the best-preserved Greek temples in existence, largely thanks to its 6th-century conversion into a Christian basilica.
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Temple of Hera (Juno): Perched at the highest point of the ridge, offering spectacular views of the coastline.
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Temple of Olympian Zeus: Once one of the largest temples of antiquity; today, you can see the remains of a "Telamon"—a colossal stone giant that once supported the structure (see two photos below).
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Kolymbethra Garden: A lush "hidden jewel" within the park, featuring ancient irrigation systems, citrus groves, and olive trees.
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Statue of Icarus: A modern bronze sculpture by Igor Mitoraj, lying fallen in front of the Temple of Concordia.
Camping Of True Life (also known as Camping Di Vita Vera) is a unique, nature-focused campsite located in Punta Regilione, Marina di Modica, Sicily. It is highly regarded for its "wild-romantic" atmosphere and its proximity to both rocky coastlines and sandy beaches.
I loved this place and you really had so much space to yourself. You also get your very own outdoor bathroom. The site emphasizes harmony with nature, having been transformed from a vineyard in 1980 by an architect who wanted to avoid traditional "commercial" camping layouts. Typically open from April to October; it is generally closed from December to March. Prices are approximately €9.00–€12.00 per night depending on the season. While the site is peaceful, it has limited infrastructure like on-site shops. You can find restaurants and cafes in Marina di Modica or nearby Pozzallo (about 5 minutes away). I bought food and brought it with me before hand.
A really random, but super beautiful spot I found while on google maps is Acque Verdi "Green Water" (Via Serpaolo, 30, 96011 Augusta SR). It is behind a town and you have to go behind a bunch of houses to get there but it was honestly such a cool place. It's just you and the locals or no one at all. Really beautiful water and coastal views and the best part is that you can jump down on a platform and explore little caves on the side of the cliff.
Ferry from Sicily back to the mainland and Genoa
Taking your motorcycle on the ferry from Palermo to Genoa is a popular way to skip nearly 1,200 km of motorway riding. The route is operated by Grandi Navi Veloci (GNV), with crossings taking approximately 19 to 21 hours.
For one adult with a motorcycle, expect to pay around €100–€150. Prices fluctuate based on the season and how early you book. You must arrive at the Port of Palermo at least 2 hours before departure for domestic routes. Once the ship departs, the garage is locked for safety. Ensure you take everything you need for the overnight trip (toiletries, change of clothes, snacks) before leaving the deck.
